dr. Martens context

For my recent summative brief, I was allocated the brand dr. Martens to research into. After reading many articles, watching documentaries, and visiting one of the flagship stores, I wanted to write this all up into its own brand analysis.

Dr. Martens is a renown and classically British brand. The boot as we know it (with the cushioned sole) was discovered and brought by a small British shoe brand called Griggs. Griggs brought the design for the boot from an ex solider, who after an injury resulting in a broken foot, lead him to create the first ever boot prototype, this man was dr. Marten. Despite its success in other countries, the boot was only made in the UK up until 2003, and the signature made in England stamp on the sole, still holds a kind of status and authenticity. It is clear that the brands strong accosiation to being British, has been something that they have used to their advantage, and encouraged.

Although the first model for dr. Martens was created in 1945 and was for decades a successful and comfortable working shoe alternative, the dr. Martens as we know them today came decades later. Although Griggs later added the now classic dr. Martens flourishes, the brand has always had a strong accosiation with its initial roots, as a boot for the working class, or in other words for anybody.

“boot of the people, for the people”

As you can probably already see, the brand places great importance and pride on its heritage, and its ability to stay a reliable and classically noticeable shoe. This idea is reinforced in the fact that since Griggs added its signature look to the boot (grooved sole, contrast yellow stitching…etc), the design hasn’t been changed once in decades.

  

For as long as the classic dr. Martens style boot as we know it has been around, it has always seemed to be attached to youth subcultures. From punks to grunge to goths, the dr. Marten boots have remained a kind of uniform for rebellious youths, growing up in often hard and fast changing times. One of its biggest and most controversial link to a subculture was to the skinheads.

The skinheads where a subculture with a lot of negative connotations, including racism and violence. Perhaps unfortunately for the brand the skinheads completely took on the boot as a trademark skinhead staple, which was usually a sign of trouble.

A key factor in dr. Martens international success, is thanks to the music industry. Many rock stars started to travel to England and would fall in love with dr. Martens. The performers would then travel around the world wearing the boots, and essentially giving the brand masses of free advertising and promotion.

“I was sick of dressing like a Christmas tree in flowing robes that got in the way of my guitar playing, so I thought I would move to utility wear”

-Pete Townshen

In the early 2000’s the brand experienced major loss in sales with the decline of the punk movement, and the other dying out subcultures, the brand had to find a way to stay relevant. They did this by taking part in a number of collaborations, with more current and exciting brands. This began to give the boot a whole new style, although the classic style of the boot remained.

Although these collaborations where successful, and gave the brand a sometimes more bold look than ever before, the brand to me still seems darker and grungier than most other shoe brands. I defiantly think that there is still a stigma of having to be a bit dark and alternative/ ‘edgy’ to wear the boots, those things of which I am not, and therefore I probably wouldn’t buy from the brand as it is now.

The struggle for the brand seems to be how it can continue to grow and remain popular amongst its younger target market, while also keeping up its classic heritage foundations, that where made from subcultures.

My challenge for this brief it to work with this brand along with the theme ‘bright and bold’, to create an event that will aim to help the brand be more successful.