BBC Perfume documentary - differences within the industry

This BBC documentary series, gave a unique and detailed view into the world of the fragrance industry. I learnt a lot from the series and hope that the information will aid me in my upcoming perfume project.

"smell is the most primitive and least understood human sense"

The series began by highlighting the importance of smell and how powerful it can be. I never had considered in much detail about how smells are such a huge part of our lives, the perfume industry manipulates this sense, triggering emotional memories and connections.

The fragrance industry is a multi billion pound business, with more brands and variety of scent than ever before. It seemed to me that perfume is one of the few non essential products, that has survived and thrived in any economical crisis, and in every class. This isn't to say that there is not a large spectrum of status' of perfume, something the series heavily highlighted. There seems to be a huge divide between the top top end brands, and the mid market brands for fragrance.  

"perfume is liquid luxury"

The documentary used two key examples to show this divide in the high end and the more accessible types of fragrance giants in the industry. The french perfume house Gueriain showcased a very luxe, classic and exclusive way of working. The brand played on the idea of strong heritage, with the aim to gain loyal lifetime customers that find their signature scent, and stick with it. The very classic and almost laid back way of marketing its products gave Gueriain a very kind of  non desperate/'we dont need you to be successful, you need us' vibe, which is very similar to other high end luxury brands such as Hermes. This style of running the brand gives it an almost unattainable stature in the industry, and to customers, which it happily plays on to its advantage, and adds the price tag to match.

In stark contrast with Gueriain was the more commercial, mid market example of a new Tommy Hilfiger fragrance. The first difference was the fact that there was even a new release at all. The over saturated mid market fragrances have to keep constant new releases in order to stand out, and sell more. Brands such a Gueriain however hardly ever release new fragrances. Due to the new releases, these mid market brands are heavy on sales, and targeting specific markets.

The development of the new fragrance 'Loud' by Tommy Hilfiger, showed me just how important market research is and promotion, however the most important process is always the design of the bottle. I found the creative process involved in this very interesting with mood boards, presentations and research. The events and heavy advertisement was also interesting, with the brand using a popular band as  products ambassadors to attract the right market. 

There are challenges for both ends of the market in the industry. High end luxury brands that place huge focus on heritage, need to keep this reputation while also still remaining relevant to modern society and lifestyle. The mid market brands have created a fast fashion style industry within fragrance, and now have to work hard to constantly make new products that stand out.



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